Mount Massive

Following a morning ascent of Mount Elbert, the highest mountain in Colorado, I reluctantly awoke at 3:00AM again; a pre-run pregame with a French press of strong, black coffee, a stretch-session atop the old picnic table to limber up the old joints, a trip to the bathroom as to not use the side of the trail later in the morning, and finally, one banana with oats to fuel up for the coming miles.

Forest Road 110 in daylight

Alanna and I had slept a second night at the Elbert Creek Campground, she opted to remain cocooned in a warm sleeping bag while I went running into darkness, hopefully to see about catching sunrise from high up along Mount Massive. This peak (and likely many surrounding, including Mount Elbert) was initially scaled during the Hayden Survey of 1873. Gaining its name due to its sheer size, Mount Massive consists of five summits, all above 14,000’, along a 3-mile-long ridgeway. 

At 4:15AM, I said a long goodbye to a sleepy Alanna; stepping into the darkness of Forest Road 110. I watched for trailside eyes as Elbert Creek trickled, flowing beneath the roadway. The 0.5-mile road walk was used as a muscle warm-up, checking pack straps, and clothing fitment before the real climbing began.

Beginning a twilight ascent of Mount Massive

Reaching the large, hiker parking lot, I observed several cars, and wondered if their drivers were ahead of me, already on trail, or perhaps backpacking somewhere in the high hills. With a bridged crossing of Halfmoon Creek also behind me, the sound of trickling water soon faded into silence, only to be broken by the occasional aspen rustle. The smooth, graded treadway of the Colorado Trail grew incrementally rocky underfoot as the pathway began side-hilling the southeast ridge of South South Massive Mountain; for a stretch, the pathway meanders through a narrow corridor of tall aspen. 

Tracing the Mount Massive Wilderness boundary through a brief patch of extensive blowdown, I watched a pair of inquisitive eyes high up on the mountainside. With no clue what kind of mountain-dwelling animal those two green orbs belonged to, I offered words of kindness, encouraging the creature to simply let me pass, as I clearly wanted no trouble, nor did I want to disturb their search for breakfast - so as long as I was not the breakfast!

Views, early along the CT/CDT

Once around a sharp bend, or switchback in the multiuse trail, the grade lessened slightly, allowing breath to be caught from the initial ascent. Several trailside, backcountry campsites can be found near the water crossings - both waterways (South Willow & Willow Creeks) were easily crossed atop mid-stream rocks and boulders, but could prove treacherous in times of high water, or spring thaw. 

As the well-graded Colorado Trail/Continental Divide Trail proceeds northward, I diverged westwardly, joining the Main Massive Trail (#1487) for a standard approach from the east. Noticeably treading along the crest of a minor ridge, the (Main) Mount Massive Trail begins a series of soft switchbacks, as it meanders closer to treeline. While gaining elevation along this section, I could see deep burgundy, and brilliant tangerine hues beginning to illuminate the horizon - this put a bit of pep into my uphill step. 

Departing the CT/CDT for the Main Massive Trail westward

Listening to coyotes yip in the nearby woods, I wanted more than ever to crest out of the trees and into daylight - after more than 3-miles of forest roaming, I was ready to view my surroundings. As treeline grew close, I could now see the low light kissing the precipitous, rocky ridgeline of peaks. A canopy of stately conifers began opening up, affording space for low bushes, and flowing grasses to thrive in the alpine sunshine.

A dusty single track pathway guides hikers out of the forest and into the expansive, open air - huge mountain masses rose up to my south, visually, I traced their ridgecrest, looking for a classic line of unmistakable pathway up any of their slopes. Then, around a tuft of lofty evergreen, I could spot my main objective, rising so much higher than subsequent high peaks that the sun-bleached boulders could have been mistaken for old snow - in fact, one patch of snow could be seen high along the east-face of Mount Massive. 

Leaving the forestland for an alpine ramble

Zigzagging around another tufted outcropping of low bushes and picturesque conifers, the narrow trail climbs, soon hikers are able to glance back to the dusty single track whence was trekked in. This morning, colorful flowers of nearly every bright color were in bloom, becoming even more enhanced by the low-angle sunrise lighting. As the Mount Massive Trail continues to gain elevation, the footpath becomes rocky and loose. In areas, secondary trails have formed alongside the main, rugged, and rocky trench - here, is an obvious place for trail improvement, as to avoid creating extra, unnecessary paths through the fragile, alpine environment. 

The pre-sunrise view from 12,500’

Now, hiking directly at the mighty mountain, the path becomes even more rocky, until hiking directly on top of jumbled boulders, and rock slabs. Several minor herd paths diverge, most hikers may never notice these rough paths veering up the steep slopes of Mount Massive’s lesser peaks. While taking a brief rest to allow my east coast lungs to absorb oxygen, I glanced eastward to watch the ball of sun rise above the distant horizon - and with that, the entire mountainside shone pink and orange for several lovely moments. 

Stunning alpenglow on sub-peaks of Mt Massive

Continuing to trek toward the exposed ridgecrest, the wind began to pick up somewhat; but, thanks to the warming sun, it only wicked sweat, without ever becoming too frigid. Once the footpath becomes exponentially rocky underfoot, I could look southeasterly and observe being near level with the Southeast Peak of Mount Massive, which is reported to stand 14,132’ above sea level. 

Turning to continue picking a route up the rocky mountainside, I could see four mountain goats just ahead; assuming all mountain goats were docile creatures (as those found in the Enchantments of Washington), I said good morning to the first, lone goat, who moseyed by without a care who I was - just eating grasses and other alpine vegetation. Nearing the next batch of mountain goats, I could tell this might be a different interaction when I saw a young mountain goat being protected by its elders. 

Mount Massive (left), just above the visible snowfield

Assuming the male was the first to be encountered, the other two remained near, often dipping into the 14,250’ col, just to peer back my direction with their deadpan stares. Trying to veer around the pack of mountain goats, I intentionally dropped east, off the ridge, to bushwhack steeply around the stubborn creatures. Limbs trembled from adrenaline as I looked up periodically, to share words of kindness, and to ensure the male was not lurking.

Westward views from the 14,250’ col

For a moment, I had serious reservations about completing my ascent of Mount Massive, I did not think I would be able to navigate safely around the protective, familial pack. Once I could look back from higher ground and see the trio of white goats still watching me intently, knowing I had put enough rocky terrain between us, I turned to enjoy the remaining climb to the summit.

Navigating a narrow, knife-edge ridge crest, an obviously worn path swings, dropping off the ridge proper, to scale a minute boulderfield, which finally opens up to reveal a casual stroll to reach the 14,428’ mountaintop. Standing atop Mount Massive is a beautiful experience; dull winds whipped while I let my gaze follow the streaks of colorful, shattered rock - far into the distance, and well into adjacent ravines and gullies - mountains and ridges stacked up. There may not be a single summit stood upon, from which I have viewed so many jagged peaks.

Nearing the 14,428’ summit

Roaming around the second highest summit in Colorado, at 7:20AM, with no other humans in sight, I was able to find several cardboard summit signs which other hikers had deliberately left at the summit. Pulling one from beneath a paper-weight rock, I took an obligatory summit sign photo - complete with an epic panoramic backdrop, and promptly returned the cardboard sign to its place beneath the sheltered rock - when, in hindsight, I should have packed out all of those cardboard signs before possibly taking flight and ending up in some waterway in a deep gully.  

With a satisfactory amount of time spent alone at the summit of Mount Massive, I gathered up my thoughts, and prepared to face the goats once again. To hopefully avoid this encounter, I began working eastward off the high point of the mountain this time; some older maps still depict a dotted line of trail departing the summit, then veering east/northeastwardly - I do not believe I was on much of a trail, however.

Views from the top

The steep, sandy slope threatened constantly to slip, each massive boulder shifted slightly upon bearing my full weight. Fearing for a treacherous descent, and not wanting to deal with feet being crushed beneath heavy boulders, I reluctantly began working a route back toward the main trail, along the ridgecrest. I could sense mountain goat eyes upon me as soon as I began back their direction - all I wanted was solid ground to tread, and to not be harassed by a pack of goats - although I was the annoying one invading their territory!

One final glance back to Mount Massive

After several tense moments I had the mountain goats, and the slippery slope behind me; back on the main trail, I could easily bounce my way downslope in grippy trail runners - I could even sense my lungs absorbing more oxygen with each breath, as elevation was lost. Passing the first uphill traffic, I warned a solo hiker of the still clearly visible, snow-white mountain goats - which had evidently been tracking my progress while descending.

Passing many more ascending hikers, most were thankful for the heads up, some had even read reports of these three as being notoriously aggressive toward hikers, which I completely understand, having experienced this firsthand. Trail running down the dusty path was an absolute joy, careening around tight switchbacks as the path meandered through tight bushes, and low conifers once again. 

Back on the smooth CT/CDT corridor

Not wanting to leave the raw beauty of this alpine area, eventually I did re-enter the forest. Recalling the haunting coyote calls from earlier, I knew there was far too much foot traffic at this time of the morning to see roaming wildlife. Now descending the smooth surface of the CT/CDT, I was suddenly stricken with the desire to turn north, and simply run along this stunning corridor until weary legs gave out; knowing Alanna was waiting back at the campsite, probably wondering where I was, I followed my ascending tracks eastward. 

Seeing locations now in daylight, where green, glowing eyes had tracked my movement through their woods, the hillside did not appear as ominous as it had several hours prior. Turning around the final, abrupt bend in the pathway, a beautiful, yet restricted lookout toward Mount Elbert rose in a notch created in the forested canopy. 

Lodgepole pine with an old patch of trailside blowdown

Kicking up a plume of dust in my wake, soon, the Halfmoon Creek became audible, then visible, then behind me as the dusty forest road was joined yet again. Following a 14-mile ascent, I wanted to walk this final half-mile, but also wanted so badly to just be done, and drop sweaty gear. With a slow shuffle, I ran back toward our campsite, where Alanna had been packing up the car; somehow, she had even found time to make avocado toast in anticipation of my return. Preparing for another day of long miles - this time, we had a layover in a custom shipping container lined up somewhere in New Mexico for the coming night.

Overall stats for the day:
     14.32-miles
     6hr 4 minutes
     4,741’ elevation gain

  • Mount Massive - 14,421’

A happy, Live Your Dream grant recipient

Previous
Previous

Jerimoth Hill (Rhode Island HP)

Next
Next

Mount Elbert (Colorado HP)